Top hiking trails in Shawnee National Forest

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Shawnee National Forest, located in southern Illinois between the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, offers a stunning landscape that features sandstone cliffs and moss-covered bluffs, along with countless creeks, lakes, and waterfalls. There are many great hikes in the area, and not a single one is disappointing. In this guide, I want to introduce some of the top hiking trails in Shawnee National Forest to help you plan your trip.

Inspired by Garden of the Gods, I spent one autumn (late October) chasing fall foliage in southern Illinois. I hadn’t realized just how huge the forest was or how many other fantastic hiking spots there were to discover. I was amazed by the number of unique rock formations scattered throughout the area. Later, I returned to Shawnee National Forest in the spring (early May) to explore even more lush, green trails.

Millions of years ago, this area was covered by a sea that deposited layers of sand and mud along its shores, which over time hardened into sandstone. As the sea retreated, the exposed sandstone was gradually shaped by wind, water, and weather, creating the canyons, bluffs, and dramatic rock formations you see today.

Garden of the Gods Observational Trail

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 0.5 mile
• Elevation gain: 39 feet
• Difficulty: easy
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Garden of the Gods is the most popular and most heavily trafficked spot in the Shawnee National Forest. It is only half a mile long and takes you from the parking lot to the bluffs, which offer many viewing spots. You can climb on the rocks and look at the forest from different angles. On a clear day, you can even see the hills of Missouri. Do not forget to check out the most famous rock, Camel Rock. Garden of the Gods is also a good place for sunset viewing because the rocks face west. During autumn, you can admire colorful rolling hills covered in autumn foliage, but it tends to get windy. Bringing extra layers will come in handy. On the other hand, in the summer, the wind might add a nice breeze to a hot day.

Waterfalls of Shawnee National Forest

There are several waterfalls in the Shawnee National Forest. If you are visiting in autumn, keep in mind that Illinois, like most other Midwestern states, has hot and humid summers with little rainfall. This means there might not be much water flowing, making waterfalls low in volume. I hiked to two waterfalls in the Shawnee National Forest: Jackson Falls and Burden Falls. Both waterfalls are situated right on top of their respective hiking trails. To get to the bottom, you must hike down the canyon.

Jackson Falls

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 4.2 miles
• Elevation gain: 311 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Jackson Fall Trail is not only a great place for hiking but also for rock climbing. I particularly enjoyed hiking to Jackson Falls, even though there was barely any water flowing down the falls when I got to the end of the trail. The trail itself was beautiful, leading on top of the canyon and passing many interesting rock formations. Getting down the canyon was a bit tricky. You must pass the wooden bridge before you notice a steep descent that requires you to use your hands to hold onto rocks for safety. You will also pass a first aid kit, and then you will know you are on the right track.

Burden Falls

• Type: out and back
• Distance: 1.2 miles
• Elevation gain: 167 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Burden Falls is a larger waterfall. The trail is shorter and more straightforward. Even though lower in volume, the waterfall itself was clearly visible. Part of the trail runs along a stream, with many scenic viewing points along the way.

All trails are well marked. However, if you are visiting in late autumn, fallen leaves tend to cover the hiking trails. You need to pay extra attention to make sure you stay on the trail.

Bell Smith Springs White Trail

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 1.2 miles
• Elevation gain: 104 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Bell Smith Springs is a very picturesque trail that takes you through a hollow in one direction and along the rim in the other. The water has a beautiful blue color, and there are plenty of interesting rock formations along the way, including a striking rock structure known as the Devil’s Backbone. I recommend taking the steps down to the lower section first, so you won’t have to climb them on the way back to the parking lot. Be sure to wear sturdy footwear, as you’ll be crossing the stream several times. Keep in mind that visiting when water levels are high can make parts of the trail challenging—or even impassable—at certain times of the year.

Rim Rock Recreational Area

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 1 mile
• Elevation gain: 167 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Rim Rock Recreational Area trail leads around the rim of a rock before descending to a cliff valley and taking you through massive rock formations. Before turning around, you can opt to walk alongside a river to Pounds Hollow Recreational Area, where you can enjoy swimming, fishing, boating, or other sports activities.

Panther Den Loop

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 3 miles
• Elevation gain: 278 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Panther Den is a very enjoyable hike through the woods that leads to impressive rock formations resembling vertical walls, making the area popular for rock climbing. Along the way, you’ll also cross a creek several times. Unfortunately, the trail is not very well marked, so downloading a trail map for offline navigation can be helpful.

Inspiration Point Trail

• Type: out and back
• Distance: 0.8 mile
• Elevation gain: 144 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Probably one of my favorites, along with the Garden of the Gods, Inspiration Point is a must-see destination at the Shawnee National Forest. It is great for hiking and bird watching. This moderate, lightly trafficked trail offers a panoramic view of the Mississippi River valley. The trail leads to a main overlook with a view of the road and the Big Muddy bottomlands. Outside of the main overlook, there are other cliffs along the trail with great views, and they are a bit more covered, offering protection from the wind. The cliffs are steep, so approach with caution. I recommend getting to the head of the trail by entering the Shawnee National Forest from the west so you can see the cliffs you’re about to hike from the road. However, beware that during heavy rainfall, the road may be closed due to flooding.

Little Grand Canyon

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 3 miles
• Elevation gain: 446 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Little Grand Canyon is one of the most heavily trafficked hiking trails in the Shawnee National Forest. This moderate hike takes you down the canyon through the creek bed. The stronger the flow of the creek, the more difficult the hike, but also the prettier, as the creek creates little waterfalls while flowing down. The water currents are not as strong in autumn as they are in spring. I suggest wearing comfortable, waterproof footwear for this hike. After descending the creek bed, the trail leads past massive rock formations and takes you to a pretty overlook.

Pumona Natural Bridge

• Type: Loop
• Distance: 0.3 mile
• Elevation gain: 68 feet
• Difficulty: moderate
• Dog-friendly: yes, on leash

Pumona Natural Bridge is a short but moderately trafficked trail that takes you to a limestone rock that looks like a natural bridge. It is a truly short loop with some steep rocky sections.

Bonus: Cave-In-Rock

Cave-In-Rock is a village located southeast of Shawnee National Forest, right by the Ohio River. In addition, Cave-In-Rock is a 55-foot-wide limestone cave overlooking the Ohio River. It is situated close to the parking lot of Cave-In-Rock State Park, so there is not much required to get there other than a few steps down. The cave was carved by geological forces: wind, water erosion, and an earthquake that shaped it, giving it the look we know today.

Where to stay at Shawnee National Forest

There are several small towns located near the Shawnee National Forest where you can find hotels. The largest city in the area is Marion, and it offers the biggest selection of hotels. There are also Airbnb/VRBO-type accommodations in the area, as well as campgrounds and cabins in the forest. Since most of the towns surrounding the Shawnee National Forest are small, they get booked quickly, especially when you are visiting during a peak season like autumn.

Where you stay depends on what you are interested in doing in the area. Shawnee National Forest is quite large and spread out, with the hikes described in this article located at least 30 minutes away from each other. As my main interest was in exploring the Garden of the Gods, I stayed at a cute Victorian-style Riverview Mansion Hotel in Golconda that was 125 years old and full of antique furniture. The owners, who live on the property, are the nicest people. The hotel came with a restaurant that was only available to hotel guests and a great selection of both local and international wines and beers.

On my spring trip to Shawnee National Forest, I was accompanied by my dog, Loki, and we stayed at a charming treehouse in Marion called the Blonde. The cabin had all the amenities I could wish for, including a deck with a barbecue grill overlooking the forest, where I spent my mornings sipping coffee and my afternoons preparing dinner. There was also a fire pit and a covered hot tub—perfect for relaxing after a day of hiking. My favorite feature, though, was having my own private nature trail right outside the cabin.

Overall

I was impressed with the Shawnee National Forest. I enjoyed discovering new hikes, bluffs, canyons, caves, and all the other limestone formations scattered throughout the area. Even though I covered quite a few popular spots, I can see myself going back to discover more to add to my list of top hiking trails in Shawnee National Forest.